The Silly, the Serious, and the Cure for it all
Bald. Why aren’t more Mexicans bald? They all seem to have hair. I don’t get it. It’s not fair. Is it the pollution? Their diet of tacos, grease, and cheese? Could it be the lack of exercise? If it is any or all of these things, sign me up!
I mean, I feel like one spin through Wall Street and you’ll see thousands of Rogaine devouring egotists. In Mexico, they almost all have full heads of hair and have no concerns in the world.
Greeks. Now, don’t try and use this “hairy” Latin argument on me. Greek men go bald just as often, if not more often, than most other men. So, why don’t Mexicans lose their hair? I think we should put Oprah on it.
The Finger. No, no, not that one! You should be ashamed of yourself for thinking that. In Mexico, the index finger is used to signal many things. You know the old index finger work out? The one when you point your finger up, then out, then up again. Well, people use that extending and retracting of the index finger to signal agreement. Sort of like, saying,”yes, yes,” quickly with your finger. Or “red rum.” This is done when they are eating or just while they nod in agreement. It’s actually pretty addictive, and I can honestly say that I dig it. I like it best when chicks do it though. Go figure.
The Mexican Meeting. Besides the metro, I think Mexican business meetings explain their culture best. Although I am not really allowed speak in gatherings with clients, I get to sit, observe, nod, and move my index finger on occasion. What is most fascinating about the meetings is their informality. Mexico is a traditionally, formal culture. People dress up to do everything, shoes are shined at all times, and no one wears sneakers around. However, their methods for doing business are anything but the anal, Western way. In the U.S. and in Western Europe meetings last an hour, one hour, no more. Everyone sits up straight, addresses clients formally, and are generally polite.
In Mexico, the key consultant in charge of a client matter may stand up mid-sentence, answer his cell phone, and walk directly out of the meeting. I have been left all alone in situations like this. The index finger doesn’t cut it. I try to smile supportively, but usually end up resorting to describing my living situation and the last night club I went to. They usually eat up the club stories. As I stumble over my words trying to sound smart and important, I hear my boss chatting with his kid about math homework.
Meetings last from two to five hours. I have sat through both. There is constant cell phone activity both by the consultants and the clients. People write text messages while we do our Power Point Presentation and phones are answered whenever they ring. Sometimes the one talking gets up to leave the conference room, other times not. Casual conversations usually break up the business being discussed, and people take off their jackets, lean back in chairs, and stand and roam when they so desire.
Their way of business is a little hard to get adjusted and accustomed to; however, once you know what to expect, you don’t know what business used to be like. I usually lean back, sometimes take off my shoes, and certainly exit whenever I have an inclination to check my email.
Mezcal. After such a meeting, I usually accompany Jorge to a Cantina for a little conversation, a little pool, and a few sips of mezcal. Technically speaking it could be said that tequila is a form of mezcal, but it can not be said that mezcal is a form of tequila. Sort of like a square is a rectangle but a rectangle isn’t necessarily a square. Anyways, there are specific differences between the beverages, mainly the methods of production and the agave (part of cactus) varieties that they are made from. Mezcal is 100% artisan and 100% agave, while tequila is part artisan and part industrial and is not 100% made from agave.
Unlike tequila, some mezcal brands have a worm inside their bottles. Prehistoric culture believed that the worm had aphrodisiac powers. The worm lives inside the agave plant and it can be of two types: white or red depending of the place of the plant from which is obtained. The worm is actually a source of protein, with some vitamins and minerals, and it will not kill you.
Climb to safety. Many of you read my retelling of the U2 concert. The next day I received an email from a dear friend. She wrote,
“Last night, I went to dinner with some friends. Michelle said her boyfriend was in Mexico City for the U2 concert. Due to the fact that it is soooo dangerous "down there," he obviously had a body guard....that had a taser gun. I mentioned that I found that more than a little excessive because you actually live there and are not chauffeured around by a taser toting, large man. She responded with, ‘well, he needs to get a clue.’”
I burst out laughing in my office. This of course drew unwanted attention, and I had to explain to my Mexican co-workers that rich Americans are silly. They all emphatically gave me the finger…the index one.
My friend offered to send down a taser gun just in case I needed it. This got me thinking, I have not really written much about the security issues here in Mexico City.
Kidnappings. Mexico is the second only to Colombia with the most kidnappings annually, worldwide. It has consistently been second since 1996. In 2003, there were more than 3,000 reported kidnappings which is roughly one every three hours. That is a frightening statistic. The most common way for a kidnapping to take place is in a taxi.
There are three types of taxis here: green and white VW bugs, red and white Nissan Sentras, and unmarked radio taxis. The cost grows from the former to the latter, the radio taxis costing twice as much at the green and white ones. When I arrived, I swore that I would pay the extra cost and always radio a taxi. That lasted two days. Now, I specifically look for the green and white taxis.
I set out another rule for myself; I will only take the green taxis with the old, harmless looking drivers. That lasted a few weeks. Now I take whatever, whenever.
Robbing and Assault. One day I was chatting with Jorge, a co-worker, and I noticed that he didn’t have on a wedding ring. He explained that he had been held up in his car a few years ago and never replaced his wedding ring. I was shocked. I mean, stealing a wedding ring, it’s like an ex-girlfriend taking the ice cube trays out of the freezer when she moves out. Who takes the ice cube trays? It’s ridiculous. A few weeks later, I noticed that Francisco also didn’t wear a ring. He had been assaulted near the office. Apparently almost everyone in my office has been robbed at one time or another over the last eight years. It is sort of an inevitability. As a precaution, I never carry my credit card, debit card, much cash, license, or anything of much importance.
Safe. I feel safe. I don’t just feel safe because I am accustomed to my surroundings, I don’t just feel safe because I don’t want my mom to worry, and I certainly don’t just feel safe because Mexico is a secure city. It isn’t. I feel safe because I am not someone you want to approach. I am a man, I am proportionally large, and I am in my twenties. This will generally not involve a quick and easy robbery. Plus, I am not likely to have much money, and I don’t. Furthermore, the most dangerous areas are north and east of the city. These places are far worse than what you saw in “City of God.” I don’t know any local that would ever venture there, or even drive near them.
Sure I ride the metro after midnight, I take green and white cabs by myself, but I stay away from the bad neighborhoods, I keep a good head on my shoulders, and I keep a low profile (except for the dancing around to my ipod, but I think that actually makes people think I am crazy vis-à-vis the odd looks I get everyday). In conclusion, no worries, you don’t need to send me a taser gun.
Mexicanization. What a wonderfully interesting country. My uncles Don and David were down last week visiting (see pictures). We had a fabulous time. But they did not fall in love with the city. In fact, the traffic gave them headaches, the pollution made them green in the face, and the food made them ill.
To me, these things are part of its charm. In order to deal with them, you have to become Mexican. Otherwise, you will stress about being on time as you sit in an hour of traffic to go a half mile, you will curse the pollution and your sore throat, you’ll walk around in fear clutching your wallet, and you’ll loathe Montezuma. The cure for all of this is not Mezcal as many of you would like to believe, it is acceptance. I walk out everyday knowing that nothing will go as planned, everyone will be late, my throat will hurt, I’ll eat tacos, I may have to bribe a cop, and I might get robbed. I just say, “hey, I am in Mexico.”